Painting entrance doors can sometimes be a challenge for weekend painter. Entrance doors are typically high visibility items and if painted poorly they can reflect negatively on the entire finish of the house. As an interior and exterior painter in Oakville I often have to paint entrance doors. This article be used as both a how to and information session for customers having their door painted by Sharrard Painting.
Notes for Customers:
1) The plastic inserts that support the doors stained glass or window are not meant to be painted. While the plastic can be painted it will chip easily and not weather well.
2) For the best result door hardware is typically removed and reinstalled. Now is the time to replace door hardware if you where considering doing so (since the impression left on the door from the old hardware can be sanded out).
3) The doors must remain slightly open for a period of 8 to 10 hours before they can be completely closed and locked. If the doors are closed too soon the paint will stick to the weather striping around the parameter of the door. The door is only left open about a inch to two inches so bugs and bees entering the house is usually not a problem.
4) To prevent sticking of the door green painters tape is left on the weather stripping for a period of two days after the door is painted. The homeowner is responsible for removing tape left on the weatherstripping.
Tips for Painting Entrance Doors:
1) Sand out all drips, brush marks and sags with a good orbital sander / mouse sander. Remove door hardware to keep brush marks to a minimum. Tape sides of doors for a clean delineation between front and back (before painting be sure to hit tape with a damp rag to avoid and bleeds of paint underneath the tape).
2) High gloss paints are harder to work with than low lustre or soft gloss paints. Using flat paint on an entrance door would not be idea. Soft gloss or Semi Gloss finishes are the most common.
3) The door should be completely dusted and washed. Unprimed or bare aluminum should be spot primed using bonding primers. Insure the surface temperature of the door is not to hot or cold since this will impact how well the paint runs and levels. Standard temps between 75 and 75 are ideal. Flotrol is a good additive to use on hotter days (it will slow down the dry time of the paint and improve its levelling characteristics).
4) Paint fast and with a plan. Have your both your brush and roller ready before you begin cutting the door. Cut the entire door first then roll out the entire door using a four inch / 4mm micro fiber roller. You should only need to load the roller twice to do one standard door. Do the sides last using a depleted roller.
5) Only if your painting the door the exact same colour is it a one coat process, otherwise always do it in two coats. Try for thinner coats since putting the paint on two thick will produce rookie like results.
6) Resist attempting to do touch ups in between coats. It usually happens like this ,, about 30 mins after you have completed your first coat you notice a spot you missed ,, paint is somewhat dry and you think I can just hit it with this brush or roller and all will be fine. DONT DO THIS! The newly applied wet paint will react with the paint that’s half an hour dry. The dryer paint will loosen up and become quite gummy, the result is usually bold and very noticeable brush or roller marks. This is why it is so important to provide for adequate dry times between coats of paint.
7) Spray finish. You likely need to remove the door off its hinges and lay it flat for a true “new door” look. Us a fine finish tip like a 411 with three coats.
Phone: (905) 334-3242