Primer Recommendations for Everyday Painting Projects

Picking the right primer is one of the critical factors to delivering  quality painting product on budget.  A good primer will seal the surface allowing both easy and even distribution of the finish product.  Primers can also be used to build up or level out a surface.  The right primers can be very effective at filling in subtle surface variations and moving you closer to creating that perfect finish.  Knowning the right primer to use will put you on the right path.

When to use primers.  Anytime you have unfinished or bare wood or unfinished drywall you should be applying a sealer or primer.  As well:

  • A lot of people also over look the fact that drywall  pulled back or exposed down to the brown paper is also an unsealed surface.  When the brown paper is visible you will need the application of a sealer BEFORE the application of polyfilla or drywall compound.  If you do not seal the exposed brown paper the polyfilla will not stick too well to the paper.  This will cause the pollyfilla to peal of the wall when rolling the finish coat – the water from the latex paint reacts with the surface and pollyfilla falls away from the wall.
  • Converting from high base colour (eg dark red, blue) to an off white colour will typically require the application of a complete coat of latex wall primer.

Types of Primers

shellacprimersShellac:  best type of primer to use for sealing in stains, wood knots, crayons, markers, etc.  Also good for sealing in open grain woods from tannis which is the yellow bleeding we see after we put white paint on wood such as oak.  Shellac primers are harder to clean up you will need to use Methyal Hydrate.  The Sherwin Williams product is a good solution – these can be purchased in gallons, quarts or spray cans.

Premium-Latex-PrimerLatex:  latex primers are great for drywall finishes.  My goto product for priming drywall is the Para Premium hi hiding primer-sealer.  This stuff has a very high solid content and is great for filing in subtle surface variations.  Two coats of the Para Hi-Hide on bare drywall is all I have on my basement ceiling.  It looks great.

Alkyd or Oil Based Primers:  should be used for sealing in wood trim.  MDF trim sealed using an alkyd based primer will not swell as much MDF primed using a water based or latex primer.  If your trim is made of wood the latex primer will also raise the gain = all your trim will need to be sanded smooth after the application of latex primer.

STIX is great for maple wood and various veneers

STIX is great for various veneers and glossy surfaces

UMA:  ureathane modified primers.  These are now the go to product for painting glossy surfaces such as veneers.  A lot of painters use them for painting cabinets since they can be brushed on and sanded easily.  STIX is an example of an UMA based primer.  I find wood surfaces that have been treated with STIX need to dry for full 24 hours before they can be finish sanded.

Surfacers:  these are light bodied primers that sand very well.  They should sand up to a fine powder and not a gummy film.  These are typically used in applications where finish appearance is of the utmost importance (eg. furniture and cabinets).  The surfacers are usually part of a lacquer based system such as Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua.

Red Oxide: used to prime metal surfaces.  As professional cabinet painters we don’t often have a need to prime metal but when we do we like to use the Rustoleum Red Oxide primer in 12 oz areosol cans.  These can be purchased at Home Depot.

88001C_4Concrete Sealer:  should be used when painting brick surfaces for the first time.  The sealer prevents all your paint for soaking into the brick.  The idea here being that the sealer is half the cost of a can of paint.  The Behr product from Home Depot is a product that I have used often.

Conclusions:  when it comes to primers you do really get what you paid for.  I learned this time and time again.  Cheap primers might due when it comes to painting drywall.  But for priming MDF, wood and special glossy surfaces you need more gusto – its gotta seal the wood but it should also sand nicely – to a fine powder like substance.

Pull Out Drawers for your Kitchen Cabinets

Recently one of our customers asked us to spec out some pull out drawer boxes for their kitchen cabinets.  After looking around at standard out-of-the-box kits we realized the we would be spending considerable $s before we even did the install.  I’m glad to say we made these 6 drawer boxes for half the cost (installed), and we can say they were custom made.  A little modest on the design but, as the customer said, “perfect and highly functional”.

Tips on Building Custom Pull Out Drawer Boxes:

All the material was purchased from Home Depot:  rails or drawer rails are attached to the sides of the cabinets – a 5/8 shim should be attached to either side to both provide clearance from the hinges and to reinforce the strength of the box.  Determining the width of the box is easy:

Width of Box = Cabinet Width – (1 inch for rails + (width of support shim *2)).

Therefore if your cabinet is 24 inches wide and your support shim is 5/8 of inch then your drawer box size is = 24 – (1 + (5/8 *2)) or 24 inches less 2.25 inchs or 21.75 inches.  The depth of the box is either 22, 20 or 18 inches.  A 22 inch deep box works for most standard cabinets.

Home Depot can do all the cutting for you.  Thats the hard part and they have the perfect percision saw to make it happen.  In Oakville they will charge you up to 8 dollars to cut up a 4 by 8 sheet of material.  For the 8 dollars you can get enought cuts to build yourself 6 to 8 drawer boxes.  Additionally they sell the various options for drawer slides – see



How to Paint Exterior Brick Surfaces Like a Professional

As an exterior painters in Oakville, Mississauga and Burlington we sometimes get questions from home owners about the painting of exterior brick surfaces.  To help alleviate any miss understandings I have assemble this little blog posting for anyone thinking about the painting of their exterior brick walls.

Tools and Materials Needed:


Concrete Bonding Primer from Home Depot – approx $25 per gallon

Concrete or Brick bonding primer / sealer:  If the surface has never been painted before then a sealer coat should be used.  Since latex paint will stick to brick surfaces easily we use this product as more of a sealer than a bonding primer.  If not sealed correctly brick and concrete surfaces act like a sponge when it comes to paint – you can end up using a lot of paint so you need to control just how much is absorbed by the brick.  Most project sprayers like the Tradeworks 150 will not be able to spray concrete bonding primer but check the paint manufacturers specifications to your pump and see if it can be done.  Having to roll out the sealer isn’t that of a big deal compared to the labour required to roll out the finish coat of paint (you’ll want to use a sprayer for that).

30MM jumbo roller is good for the application of the sealer

30MM jumbo roller is good for the application of the sealer

Power Washer:  power washing achieves a couple of things.  If the surface is previously painted and its failing the power washing will do great things to remove the loose and peeling paint.  As well the washing will help to release debris, dust and other chemicals like salt from the surface prior to painting.  If using a pressure washer make the surface is somewhat dry before you begin to paint. It’s not critical that surface be dry before you start your painting project.  Sometimes if the temperature is really hot you can lightly spray the brick with water prior to the application of paint – this will allow the paint to run out into the porus surfaces easier.

A small airless pump sprayer like this Graco Tradeworks 150 can be used paint exterior brick surfaces.

A small airless pump sprayer like this Graco Tradeworks 150 can be used paint exterior brick surfaces.

Applicators: roller sleeves or an airless paint sprayer.  If you planning to roll on the paint you will need a very think applicator such as a 30mm sleeve or roller.  I prefer to use an airless sprayer to paint brick.  From a time perspective i am not sure you save much but the airless sprayer will give you a much easier job physically and better looking, more detailed finish in the end. Painting brick with a brush and roller is a very messy and physically demanding job.

Exterior Latex Flat Paint:  100% arclyic latex paint is typically all that needed as far as the correct paint is concerned.  Unlikely that you will want to use anything but a flat exterior latex (vs a semi gloss / gloss).  Since the surfaces are not very smooth the flat latex works well and looks much better than semi gloss or gloss product.  My experience is that if you hand-roll the surface you will use more paint than if you sprayed the surface, this is because brick is so pours its impossible to distribute the paint as evenly as using an airless sprayer.


Sprayed Cabinet Doors

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinet Doors

Updated Nov 30 2014.  By Todd Sharrard.  This is the same process Sharrard Painting uses for the refinishing kitchen cabinet doors.  When refinishing we spray paint our kitchen cabinet doors using airless and conventional HVLP sprayer techniques.  If you decide to undertake a cabinet refinishing project the actual process used for applying the finish to the surfaces may vary, for example a brush and roller could be used, an airless sprayer, a portable turbine based sprayer such a Titan Capspray, or conventional HVLP spray gun could be used but, the overall process remains generally the same.

Here is the complete how to paint kitchen cabinets by Sharrard Painting:

Materials Needed:

  • Paint:  Sharrard painting using Lacquers to finish cabinet doors which can only be applied using a sprayer.  If you need to use a brush and roller then use Ben Moore Advance.  Most projects can be completed with one gallon of paint, if you’re spraying you will need a lot more.  Discuss sheen options with the paint store and review the sample.
  • Primer: discuss options with the paint store, I recommend STIX Waterborne bonding primer.
  • Sandpaper – review the complete how too and the blog post on Cabinet Painting Tips and determine how you plan to complete the sanding stage of this project, you’ll need 120/150 grit paper for the initial sanding of the gloss and varnish surfaces, 220/240 grit paper for the sanding of the primer coat and 400 grit paper or equilvant for sanding between finish coats.  I really like using the gray 000 sanding pads from Gator.  I have a picture of them below.
  • Drying Rack: materials if required.
  • Paint Brushes and Rollers:   Traditional Methods:  1 inch angled sash (paint brush), 3 inch fine finish roller (i do not use foam rollers), small paint try.
  • Misc: new hardware, replacement hinges, wood filler (if you have any holes to fill)

STIX (waterbased) is great for previously painted surfaces, maple wood and various veneers. BIN (oil based) is better for oak wood.

STIX (waterbased) is great for previously painted surfaces, maple wood and various veneers. BIN (oil based) is better for oak wood.

Gator 000 Sanding Pads use between finish coats.

Top Secret Tip, please don’t tell my competitors … Gator 000 Sanding Pads work great between finish coats

These are great for doing kitchen cabinets, including the base cabinets.

If you cannot spray finish then 3 inch rollers are great for doing kitchen cabinets, including the base cabinets. They come with there own tray (which is useless) cost is approx $5.

Variable Speed Orbital Sander by Dewalt - approx $100 - variable speeds and dust collector (that connects to a vacumn hose)

Variable Speed Orbital Sander by Dewalt – approx $100 – variable speeds and dust collector (that connects to a vacumn hose)

From Start to Finish: Painting Kitchen Cabinets

A)  Take them off:  Remove, label doors and all other hardware.  See our blog post on Tips for Painting Kitchen Cabinets for more information about this.

B)  Wash Doors:  all doors are washed with tri-sodium phosphates (a de-greaser).  It’s almost a type of dry washing since the doors cannot get too damp or else they will warp or suffer other damage.  You need to scrub up and rise and pat dry each door in a timely fashion.  Insure the doors are dry before sanding.

C)  Sanding (prior to prime coat): scuff sand the doors and sand out sags and runs from the previous finish.  Scuff sanding means 5 to 6 quick passes with sand paper.

  • Use sanding sponges for the groves and expect to use a lot.  The smaller cheap ones are easier to use but only last 2 or 3 doors before they need to be replaced.
  • Using a combination of spade shaped mouse sander for the corners and orbital sander for the front and sides and you will save a lot of time.
  • Be systematic in your approach to getting the work done and not missing any corners, sides or fonts.
  • For the initial sanding of the varnish coat use 120 – 180 grit sand paper.
  • Use 150/180 if you’re new to using those tools.  Practice sanding on the backs of the doors.  A moving orbital sander can leave rotation marks on the surface if not placed on to that surface correctly.
  • Dust, consider doing the sanding outside if possible and wear a mask to protect your lungs from the fine varnish dust.

D)  Dents, Cracks and Holes:  Now is the time to fill small holes with wood filler.  The Le Page Tinted Wood Fillers work well in most applications.

E)  Modifications: if your going to change the door hardware you might want to run through a few things before you start painting the doors.  Does the new hardware require A) the addition of a new hole B) the filling of the existing holes and the drilling of new ones or C) no  changes since the existing hole(s) will work fine.  Drilling templates and a 3/16 brad bit are essential tools for making such a modification.  The template and the pointed drill bit  (the brad bit) insures that your new hardware is straight and well aligned with the other doors.


F)  Dusting: completely dust the doors, remove all dust, use dry paint brush to sweep out cracks and be very detailed.  Vacuum each piece to remove all the varnish dust, a bristle vacuum attachment works well for the detailed job.

G)  Clean up:  vacuum your work area and get ready to paint.

Doors are sprayed one side at a time and dried flat.

Example of Drying station built using two by 4 frames and drywall plugs.  2013 Sharrard Painting

H)  Drying Station:  if not already done construct a drying station.  A professional lays out all the doors in advance and insures that a freshly painted door can be removed from the paint station and placed onto the drying rack without any of the wet paint being touched.

I)  Prime coat:  Match the primer to the paint and the paint and to the surface being painted.  Prime the backs of the doors first and follow the paint or lacquer manufactures instructions for dry time. Flip over prime the other side.

Tip:  spray paint the doors laying flat and always spay paint the sides of the cabinet doors first before applying your finish coat to the top or bottom or the door.  If you’re applying two coats of primer and two coats of finish then each side of the cabinet door will end up getting painted 8 times.   Don’t miss doing the sides of the door or drawer on each coat since they will get rough from over spray if you spray just the top of the surface without doing the sides.

Tack Rags available at Sherwin Williams. approx $2.00

These tack cloths are available at Sherwin Williams. approx $2.00

J)  Sand:  After the primer coat has completely dried use 220/240 grit sandpaper to smooth out the primer coat.  If painting your doors white or an offwhite – two coats of primer is better bet than one coat of primer and two coats of thick paint.  Completely dust and vacuum the door after sanding and wipe the door down with a tack cloth just prior to painting.  Use a dry paint brush as a fine whisk to get into the corners.  If possible take each door outside, or away from the painting station to avoid dust contamination at the drying racks.

K)  First Coat of Paint:  paint the BACK of the DOOR first (both coats of paint).  If you paint the backs first any marks left from the painters pyramids (only if you’re in a rush) will be on the back of the door – drying time is as per the paints instructions.

  • when brushing or rolling the surface waterbased enamels such as Ben Moore Advance will need a full 16 hours of dry try between coats.  While the paint may feel very dry after 5 to 6 hours never when brushing attempt any repaints prior to the interval of time recommend by the paint manufacturer 
  • Recoat times can be greatly reduced when spray painting doors.  Approx 6 hours – because you are not physically touching the surface.  Professional cabinet finishers will use lacquer products that typically dry in under an hour.
  • Overnight drying or longer before flipping the doors and painting the fronts is recommend.

Cloud White Semi Gloss - Refinished Cabinet Door

  • If the first coat has not cured enough the second coat will soften the first coat creating thick and unsightly brush marks.
  • Yellow bleeds or stains coming through white primer are sign you need to use oil base primer with shellac such as BIN by Zinsser.  If not dealt with the yellow will continue to bleed through to the finish coat.  If the yellowing is only is only in a few spots then use a spray can of BINs and only spot prime.  If the yellowing is extensive you will need to apply a complete coat of the BINs shellac based primer.

M) Second coat of paint: Between first and second coat use 320 grit sandpaper.  If it’s not covering completely after the second coats don’t force it, just accept that you’ll need to apply another coat.  You likely applied too light of a coat during the primer or painting process or both but that’s OK since the end results applying the paint to thick would be much worse.

N) Painting Base Cabinets, Gable Ends, Kick Plates, Crowns and Valances:  cabinet doors can be move around during the painting process but the base cabinetry cannot and therefore in many ways it is a lot harder and cumbersome to paint the base cabinets then the doors and drawers.  Take your time.  With all of the corners in the base cabinets there is a lot of places to get sags, even for the seasoned pro it can be  hard.  We spray paint most of your base cabinetry right on site using a portable turbine based sprayer such as Titan Capspray.   In October of 2014 we did a great blog entry on spray painting base cabinets and gable ends.

If you can’t use a sprayer to paint the base cabinets  the tiny 3 inch rollers are great for painting kitchen cabinet carcasses.  When painting the edge banding I really like to deplete my roller first.    Keep spare cardboard with you to do just that, i.e. roll out a freshly paint filled roller on the scrap piece cardboard before painting the thin strip edge banding.  Use a lot of tape here to make your job easier and to keep your focus on the not getting any sags or runs.

N) Dry Time and Re-hanging the doors:  Within hours the surface is dry to the touch but the paint is still soft and will scratch, chip or scuff easily.  During the initial week of drying try not to handle the doors too much initially and don’t try to hang the doors before they have begun to fully cure, this takes about 5 to 7 days.

Sharrard Painting & Fine Finishing
487 Speers Rd (by appointment only)
Oakville, Ontario
L6K 2G4

Phone: (905) 334-3242

Getting Ready for the Painters

As a professional painter in Oakville I often need to get my clients ready for interior painting projects.   To facilitate that process I created this standard memo to insure that all items are covered off prior to us starting your painting project.

  1. Rooms in General – remove all items from the tops of the furniture (eg dresser, night stands, dining room hutch).  You do not need to move items into the center of the room but the painters should be able to easily move the furniture  without fear of having an item fall off or out of the furniture.  All items should be lifted up from the floor. Reading lights can be left in place.
  2. Art Work – please remove all art work from the walls and store in a room that is not being painted.   Please be sure to circle any nails or mounts attached to the wall that will remain.  All other holes, including those where the nail, mount or screw was left will be filled.
  3. Blinds – unless stated in the contract the customer needs to remove and replace there own blinds.  This includes shower curtains if the bathroom is to be painted.
  4. Brush Washing – the painters will need to wash brushes and rollers – it the kitchen sink is off limits please let us know.  The laundry tub is where most of the brushes and rollers should be rinsed but occasionally the kitchen sink may be used for a quick rinse.
  5. Door hardware –  when painting doors some customers see this as optimal time to replace a lock set or door knob.  Unfortunately we can only put back on what we took off.  Additional labor charges apply when the lock sets are changed.
  6. Kitchens & Bathrooms – If painting the kitchen / bathroom all items should be removed from the counters.  Sometimes painters may have to put a foot on the counters to paint out a bulkhead because the counter makes it impossible to get the ladder close enough.
  7. Closets – if the closet walls are being painted – all items of clothing must be removed from the closet.  If the back of closet door is being painted the clothing in the closet should be fairly clear of the of the door – if the inside of the closet door frame is to be painted then all clothing will need to be removed from the closet.
  8. Kitchens & Bathrooms – painters will use the microwave to reheat beverages and lunches – please let us know if this will be a problem.
  9. Smoking.  I don’t smoke but have noticed that many painters do.  Some of the painters in my crews smoke.  I usually request that the painter take their smoke near to where they parked the car, i.e. not your front landing or garage.  If there are non smoking arrangements that need to be made please bring these to our attention.  We will be more than happy to accommodate your needs.
  10. Electrical Face Plates, Switch Covers.  In some contracts the customer is responsible to remove and replace these objects – please insure these are safely stored.
  11. Ladders & Tools  – some ladders and tools may be left on site during the project.
  12. Communication – we believe in keeping it open so if there is something on your mind please let us know immediately and we will try to address your concern ASAP.
  13. Start times can vary depending on the jobs material requirements and distances traveled to get the job.  We will call if we are going to be later 9:30 for a start time.  Customers should be prepared to let painters work up until 6:00 PM and communicated a day or two in advance if this is not possible.

Painting Entrance Doors

Painting entrance doors can sometimes be a challenge for weekend painter. Entrance doors are typically high visibility items and if painted poorly they can reflect negatively on the entire finish of the house. As an interior and exterior painter in Oakville I often have to paint entrance doors. This article be used as both a how to and information session for customers having their door painted by Sharrard Painting.

Notes for Customers:

1) The plastic inserts that support the doors stained glass or window are not meant to be painted. While the plastic can be painted it will chip easily and not weather well.

2) For the best result door hardware is typically removed and reinstalled. Now is the time to replace door hardware if you where considering doing so (since the impression left on the door from the old hardware can be sanded out).

3) The doors must remain slightly open for a period of 8 to 10 hours before they can be completely closed and locked. If the doors are closed too soon the paint will stick to the weather striping around the parameter of the door. The door is only left open about a inch to two inches so bugs and bees entering the house is usually not a problem.

4) To prevent sticking of the door green painters tape is left on the weather stripping for a period of two days after the door is painted. The homeowner is responsible for removing tape left on the weatherstripping.

Tips for Painting Entrance Doors:

1) Sand out all drips, brush marks and sags with a good orbital sander / mouse sander. Remove door hardware to keep brush marks to a minimum. Tape sides of doors for a clean delineation between front and back (before painting be sure to hit tape with a damp rag to avoid and bleeds of paint underneath the tape).

2) High gloss paints are harder to work with than low lustre or soft gloss paints. Using flat paint on an entrance door would not be idea. Soft gloss or Semi Gloss finishes are the most common.

3) The door should be completely dusted and washed. Unprimed or bare aluminum should be spot primed using bonding primers. Insure the surface temperature of the door is not to hot or cold since this will impact how well the paint runs and levels. Standard temps between 75 and 75 are ideal. Flotrol is a good additive to use on hotter days (it will slow down the dry time of the paint and improve its levelling characteristics).

4) Paint fast and with a plan. Have your both your brush and roller ready before you begin cutting the door. Cut the entire door first then roll out the entire door using a four inch / 4mm micro fiber roller. You should only need to load the roller twice to do one standard door. Do the sides last using a depleted roller.

5) Only if your painting the door the exact same colour is it a one coat process, otherwise always do it in two coats. Try for thinner coats since putting the paint on two thick will produce rookie like results.

6) Resist attempting to do touch ups in between coats. It usually happens like this ,, about 30 mins after you have completed your first coat you notice a spot you missed ,, paint is somewhat dry and you think I can just hit it with this brush or roller and all will be fine. DONT DO THIS! The newly applied wet paint will react with the paint that’s half an hour dry. The dryer paint will loosen up and become quite gummy, the result is usually bold and very noticeable brush or roller marks. This is why it is so important to provide for adequate dry times between coats of paint.

7) Spray finish. You likely need to remove the door off its hinges and lay it flat for a true “new door” look. Us a fine finish tip like a 411 with three coats.

Sharrard Painting
1436 Aldercrest Crt
Oakville, Ontario
L6M 1X3

Phone: (905) 334-3242

Interior Painting – Surface Preparation Tips

As an Oakville Painter I often get questions around surface prep and all the great things we can do before we actually open up a can of paint and put the brush to the wall.  Here is my list of 10 critical things you want to do before you start painting.

  • Empty as much as you can out of room.  Working around clutter is no fun and a sure way to spill paint.  All furniture that can be reasonably removed from the room should be.   Moving the furniture to the center of the room is ideal.  Try to maintain a 3 to 4 foot clearance around the parameter of the room, this will give you the best results when rolling the walls and allow you to use a small extension pole (which will give you more leverage and make the overall job of painting easier).
  • Put down lots of drop sheets can and cover all furniture.  Rollers create over spray – it usually comes off with a little water – as a professional contractor I have wasted  I have seen painters waste hours cleaning up when they just could have spent 15 minutes putting down drop sheets.
  • Fill all cracks between the wall and the baseboards with latex caulk – this will create a solid and professional look.  You can’t sand dry caulking (sorry Joe) so its the finish product once you leave it.


  • Scuff sand all walls with 150 grit sand paper – scuff sanding removes all the specks and lint from the previous paint job.  As well, scuff sanding will provide for better surface adhesion which is important if you’re going from a eggshell to flat or low luster finish.
  • If your paint the baseboard and window frames these are best sanded using a sponge sander as it can work into the curves of the molding.  Extra effort spent sanding the the base of door frames and the baseboards with a sponge will reward the painter with a very professional paint finish.
  • Fill all holes and cracks.  Remember filling larger wholes will take three applications of plaster to create a proper (new like) finish.  When filling holes take a tool (eg a screwdriver) with a round ended handle – using the round end of the tool press into the wall where the hole is – this should create a small divot around where the hole was – this will be much easy to fill than simple hole in the wall (the plaster will adhere better and sanding will be easier).
  • Prime all areas where plaster has been applied – if you don’t the paint will shadow where the plaster patch was applied – to remedy this apply one additional coat (if the paint is self-priming) or just use primer (like the pros do).
  • Use tape if you’re not a pro – it will save you time and create a beautiful straight cut line, see my blog entry on tips for using Painters Tape.IMG_1653
  • If the previous painter made a mess of the ceiling cut line and you don’t want to paint the ceiling again purchase a quart of good ceiling paint and skirt the parameter of the ceiling with it to cover the bad cut lines.  Really only apply enough paint on the ceiling to cover the bad cut line, most of the ceiling paint you apply should be on the wall with only a very small line on the ceiling – eg a quarter of an inch.


  • Clean and dust the room completed but do it just before you paint.  Surface prep creates a lot of dust and that dust must be removed prior to painting.  Clean above and door window frames as these are common places for unseen dust to collect.  Dust collected by the brush during the application of the finish coat will leave the brush somewhere you just don’t want it to – like around a face plate or a window frame cut line right at eye level.

As a professional painter in Oakville I have always said that the key to any good painting review is the prep work.  When hiring your next painter for your Oakville painting project make sure both of you have common expectations on the level of prep work required.  My experience has shown me that this can be the biggest disconnect between what the customer thought they were getting and what they actually got.  Be sure to point out to the painter examples of holes and dents you expect to be filled so that your painter knows what you expect when the job is completed.

Sharrard Painting
1436 Aldercrest Crt
Oakville, Ontario
L6M 1X3

Phone: (905) 334-3242

Handy Links Related to Painting and Construction in North America

Here are some handy links related to painting and construction in Canada.

The Canada Construction Portal for products and services : the portal

How to Links:

Filling wood grain in Oak Panel Doors:


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