Category Archives: Cabinet Refinishing

Completed benches finished by Sharrard Painting made by ReTaylors

Project Review – LA Kings / Staples Center

Oakville, Ontario:  Sharrard Painting and Fine Finishing through its association with Retaylors just completed the refinishing of the new Coaches Corner for the Staple Center in Los Angeles.  The project involved the finishing of over 100 pieces of solid birch and birch veneer.   Each piece under went the following finishing schedule:

  1. 150 grit sanding
  2. Staining – dry for 24 hours
  3. Application of Supergard Valspar Clear – Sheen 25, via Graco 490 with 410 tip
  4. Sanding with 320 grit
  5. Application of Supergard Valspar Clear
  6. Sanding with 500 grit
  7. Application of Supergard Valspar Clear

Do to fire code regulations every piece had to be sealed on both sides.   As per Valspar two coats of the clear coat provided adequate fire resistance required to meet local code legislations.

What a fun and exciting project for us to complete, thanks to Andrew and the team at Retaylors for the opportunity to work on such great quality pieces.

IMG_0967

Spray Painted Kitchen Cabinets Done in Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Lacquer

ANCASTER, ONTARIO.  These cabinets were refinished by Sharrard Painting and Fine Finishing last fall.  They were spray painted using an 395 Air Assisted Sprayer from Graco for the shop work and a Capspray 8100 (3 stage turbine) for the on site work.  The colour is CC-20 Decorators White.  The cabinet doors are made of very heavy and solid MDF core board.  They were primed with two coats of Kem Aqua Surfacer and  two coats of Kem Aqua Loss Gloss Blending White.

Before:

The mushroom glazed finish was very popular 10 years ago, I really liked them but keeping with the times today means a solid, glossly finish, no glazing.  Glazing is a great technique that helps to hide a lot of imperfections in the finish and i can see why finishers used so much.

The ‘corbals’ under the island and the range hood will be a real challenge to finish in a solid white.   The inside of the glass cabinet and its shelves will need to be refinished.  The crowns could come off but moving them you risk breaking the seal in the corners.

During:

Good quality flooring paper is where it starts.  The stuff we are using here is called Anchored paper (not red rosin paper) and it comes from ICI / DULUX paints in Oakville.  Great stuff – kind of rubber like – somewhat water / solvent proof, unlike rosin paper.  Using a 3M hand masker one for paper and one for plastic film is great.

 

After:

Finish coat done in Kem Aqua Low Gloss Blending White – tinted to CC20 Decorators White (Ben Moore).  Customer replaced floors with beautiful hardwood but still needs to replace the back splash; the two tone countertop (island is done in different colour) is a sharp look!

 

Spray Painted Base Cabinets

Spray Painting Kitchen Base Cabinets, Kick Plates, Crowns, Valances and Gable Ends.

By Todd Sharrard.  When refinishing kitchen cabinets the painting of base cabinetry refers to the refinishing of articles that cannot be removed and painted off site.  In your standard kitchen this includes things such as the kick plates, gable ends, valance and crown mouldings; it can also refer to the painting of the stile and rail edge banding that surrounds each cabinet carcass.

This is our refined process for spray painting the on site portion of any kitchen cabinet refinishing project – your typical 30 to 45 piece kitchen will take two people about a day and half to two days to go through this entire process (the on site work only).  It is labour intense, yes very much but, the goal is to make the kitchen look not painted, but in fact constructed in the colour of choice.  The gable end, crowns and valances may end up being the most visable elements of your kitchen cabinetry so they should be spray painted, just like the cabinet doors and drawers.

Terminology:

  • cabinet carcass is the cabinet box or shell without its cabinet doors or drawers.
  • the term rail is use to refer to the horizontal edge of a carcass or cabinet door
  • stile is the vertical edge of the carcass or cabinet door
  • carcasses can be frameless or have a face frame attached.

Tools & Sundry List:

Beyond your standard painting tools and accessories these are the critical items i need for finishing base cabinets in your typical 45 piece kitchen.

  • 3 stage or greater HVLP turbine sprayer or portable compressor based sprayer
  • Good quality rosin paper or flooring paper
  • Dnya Patch Pro or Le Page Wood Filler
  • 3m Easy Masker with 24 inch film

    142190_multiple500_1

    Hand Masker – toys for big boys, not essitenal for the DIYer, that aside, I can’t believe i used to work without one.

  • Blue Tape 1.5 inch 2 rolls
  • White Tape – 1 inch 2 rolls
  • White Tape – 2 inch – 2 rolls
  • Tape and Drape
  • Paper Rolls – 10 to 12 inch
  • Sharp Knife
  • 400 Grit / 240 Grit / 120 Grit * three stages of sanding and somewhere in that range but nothing less than 400 for the last coat
  • red and grey finishing pads * these are optional but sure do help with sanding details and washing

Spray painting base cabinetry can be tricky, in fact its harder and more time consuming than painting the actual doors and drawers.  The nature of task is difficult since the base cabinets have many intersecting points, corners and edges and most painting equipment wasn’t made to paint a 1/2 inch strip.  All this translates into the perfect setting for a lot paint sags and the occasional holiday (missing a spot).

Step by Step Process: Continue reading

Spray Painted Oak Cabinet Doors

How to Refinish Oak Cabinet Doors

By Todd Sharrard –  Today the re-finishing of oak cabinet doors to a solid pigmented finish is a common choice amongst homeowners.  If this is what you decide to do you will be dealing with finishing issues specific to sealing wood stains and the gain of the oak wood which can be is very porus.  Use these tips to get a great presentation when refinishing oak cabinet doors.

oakwood

Close up view of oak wood – notice the open and porus nature of the wood.

shellacprimers

Sherwin Williams Shellac Product – aslo BIN by Zinsser is a shellac based primer.

1) Shellac – this is the right primer to use.  The shellac tackles a couple of  the key issues surrounding the refinishing of Oak.  Firstly the shellac will seal the grain the nicely.  The consistency of pigmented shellac is that of stain, almost water like; this is good for penetrating the deep crevices of the grain that we see in oak wood.

2) Spraying the Shellac – since the shellac dries so fast the best way to apply it is to use a sprayer device.  I have sprayed shellac using a suction feed spray gun with a 1.8mm tip – i think you could get away using a finer tip considering the consistency of the shellac; compared to other primers it is quite thin.   Brushing & rolling pigmented shellac primer.  Work fast and one piece at a time; like any other door do the detail first, keep a wet edge, dab the corners, pull out from corners, then roll the flats, use a depleted roller on the sides.  Always keep your roller wet and ready for the next board ~ don’t let the roller dry out.   Shellac cleans up nicely using Methal Hydrate (available at the paint shop).

3) Tannins – one of the bigger issues to deal with when refinishing oak cabinet doors to a solid finish is yellow stains that can bleed through the lacquer,  we refer to these as Tannins. These are the natural dyes that come from woods like oak and will definitely be an issue if your finishing the doors using a white or off white colour.  Again this is where the shellac primer reigns supreme – nothing is better at dealing with oak tannins and stains than pigmented shellac base primers.

4) Sanding after primer coats and each finish coat.  You’ll need to sand down between the primer coats and the finish coats if you want the grain of the oak to fully absorb the lacquer.  You will find that the effort to finish oak doors in a darker colour is less than finishing in an off white or white.  With the lighter colours the grain must be fully absorbed or else black pit marks will appear in the deeper crevices of the grain; sanding between primer coats and finish coat will both level off the grain and fill the deeper crevices with sanding dust to be absorbed or burnt in with next coat of primer or lacquer.

FINE FINISH TIP:  don’t recoat primers before the recommend dry time and try to let the primer coats dry at least a day before sanding.  You will sand away less edges and primer and leave a better build if you let the primer coat cure really well.

whitepaintedoak

The picture above shows how the grain presents itself when oak is done in solid pigmented finish.  Even though we sand between primer and finish coats we still see the grain.

5) Surfacer (Lacquer Primer) after Shellac Primer.  Before applying a coat of pigmented lacquer some finishers will apply a lacquer based primer product called surfacer.  Unlike the shellac, the surfacer sands to a soft powder like substance.  The surfacer can be used to build up the finish and seal in the grain.

Sharrard Painting & Fine Finishing
487 Speers Rd, Oakville,
Ontario, L6K 2G4
Phone: (905) 334-3242

Website: www.sharrardpainting.ca

Sprayed Cabinet Doors

How to Paint Kitchen Cabinet Doors

Updated Nov 30 2014.  By Todd Sharrard.  This is the same process Sharrard Painting uses for the refinishing kitchen cabinet doors.  When refinishing we spray paint our kitchen cabinet doors using airless and conventional HVLP sprayer techniques.  If you decide to undertake a cabinet refinishing project the actual process used for applying the finish to the surfaces may vary, for example a brush and roller could be used, an airless sprayer, a portable turbine based sprayer such a Titan Capspray, or conventional HVLP spray gun could be used but, the overall process remains generally the same.

Here is the complete how to paint kitchen cabinets by Sharrard Painting:

Materials Needed:

  • Paint:  Sharrard painting using Lacquers to finish cabinet doors which can only be applied using a sprayer.  If you need to use a brush and roller then use Ben Moore Advance.  Most projects can be completed with one gallon of paint, if you’re spraying you will need a lot more.  Discuss sheen options with the paint store and review the sample.
  • Primer: discuss options with the paint store, I recommend STIX Waterborne bonding primer.
  • Sandpaper – review the complete how too and the blog post on Cabinet Painting Tips and determine how you plan to complete the sanding stage of this project, you’ll need 120/150 grit paper for the initial sanding of the gloss and varnish surfaces, 220/240 grit paper for the sanding of the primer coat and 400 grit paper or equilvant for sanding between finish coats.  I really like using the gray 000 sanding pads from Gator.  I have a picture of them below.
  • Drying Rack: materials if required.
  • Paint Brushes and Rollers:   Traditional Methods:  1 inch angled sash (paint brush), 3 inch fine finish roller (i do not use foam rollers), small paint try.
  • Misc: new hardware, replacement hinges, wood filler (if you have any holes to fill)

STIX (waterbased) is great for previously painted surfaces, maple wood and various veneers. BIN (oil based) is better for oak wood.

STIX (waterbased) is great for previously painted surfaces, maple wood and various veneers. BIN (oil based) is better for oak wood.

Gator 000 Sanding Pads use between finish coats.

Top Secret Tip, please don’t tell my competitors … Gator 000 Sanding Pads work great between finish coats

These are great for doing kitchen cabinets, including the base cabinets.

If you cannot spray finish then 3 inch rollers are great for doing kitchen cabinets, including the base cabinets. They come with there own tray (which is useless) cost is approx $5.

Variable Speed Orbital Sander by Dewalt - approx $100 - variable speeds and dust collector (that connects to a vacumn hose)

Variable Speed Orbital Sander by Dewalt – approx $100 – variable speeds and dust collector (that connects to a vacumn hose)

From Start to Finish: Painting Kitchen Cabinets

A)  Take them off:  Remove, label doors and all other hardware.  See our blog post on Tips for Painting Kitchen Cabinets for more information about this.

B)  Wash Doors:  all doors are washed with tri-sodium phosphates (a de-greaser).  It’s almost a type of dry washing since the doors cannot get too damp or else they will warp or suffer other damage.  You need to scrub up and rise and pat dry each door in a timely fashion.  Insure the doors are dry before sanding.

C)  Sanding (prior to prime coat): scuff sand the doors and sand out sags and runs from the previous finish.  Scuff sanding means 5 to 6 quick passes with sand paper.

  • Use sanding sponges for the groves and expect to use a lot.  The smaller cheap ones are easier to use but only last 2 or 3 doors before they need to be replaced.
  • Using a combination of spade shaped mouse sander for the corners and orbital sander for the front and sides and you will save a lot of time.
  • Be systematic in your approach to getting the work done and not missing any corners, sides or fonts.
  • For the initial sanding of the varnish coat use 120 – 180 grit sand paper.
  • Use 150/180 if you’re new to using those tools.  Practice sanding on the backs of the doors.  A moving orbital sander can leave rotation marks on the surface if not placed on to that surface correctly.
  • Dust, consider doing the sanding outside if possible and wear a mask to protect your lungs from the fine varnish dust.

D)  Dents, Cracks and Holes:  Now is the time to fill small holes with wood filler.  The Le Page Tinted Wood Fillers work well in most applications.

E)  Modifications: if your going to change the door hardware you might want to run through a few things before you start painting the doors.  Does the new hardware require A) the addition of a new hole B) the filling of the existing holes and the drilling of new ones or C) no  changes since the existing hole(s) will work fine.  Drilling templates and a 3/16 brad bit are essential tools for making such a modification.  The template and the pointed drill bit  (the brad bit) insures that your new hardware is straight and well aligned with the other doors.

 

F)  Dusting: completely dust the doors, remove all dust, use dry paint brush to sweep out cracks and be very detailed.  Vacuum each piece to remove all the varnish dust, a bristle vacuum attachment works well for the detailed job.

G)  Clean up:  vacuum your work area and get ready to paint.

Doors are sprayed one side at a time and dried flat.

Example of Drying station built using two by 4 frames and drywall plugs.  2013 Sharrard Painting

H)  Drying Station:  if not already done construct a drying station.  A professional lays out all the doors in advance and insures that a freshly painted door can be removed from the paint station and placed onto the drying rack without any of the wet paint being touched.

I)  Prime coat:  Match the primer to the paint and the paint and to the surface being painted.  Prime the backs of the doors first and follow the paint or lacquer manufactures instructions for dry time. Flip over prime the other side.

Tip:  spray paint the doors laying flat and always spay paint the sides of the cabinet doors first before applying your finish coat to the top or bottom or the door.  If you’re applying two coats of primer and two coats of finish then each side of the cabinet door will end up getting painted 8 times.   Don’t miss doing the sides of the door or drawer on each coat since they will get rough from over spray if you spray just the top of the surface without doing the sides.

Tack Rags available at Sherwin Williams. approx $2.00

These tack cloths are available at Sherwin Williams. approx $2.00

J)  Sand:  After the primer coat has completely dried use 220/240 grit sandpaper to smooth out the primer coat.  If painting your doors white or an offwhite – two coats of primer is better bet than one coat of primer and two coats of thick paint.  Completely dust and vacuum the door after sanding and wipe the door down with a tack cloth just prior to painting.  Use a dry paint brush as a fine whisk to get into the corners.  If possible take each door outside, or away from the painting station to avoid dust contamination at the drying racks.

K)  First Coat of Paint:  paint the BACK of the DOOR first (both coats of paint).  If you paint the backs first any marks left from the painters pyramids (only if you’re in a rush) will be on the back of the door – drying time is as per the paints instructions.

  • when brushing or rolling the surface waterbased enamels such as Ben Moore Advance will need a full 16 hours of dry try between coats.  While the paint may feel very dry after 5 to 6 hours never when brushing attempt any repaints prior to the interval of time recommend by the paint manufacturer 
  • Recoat times can be greatly reduced when spray painting doors.  Approx 6 hours – because you are not physically touching the surface.  Professional cabinet finishers will use lacquer products that typically dry in under an hour.
  • Overnight drying or longer before flipping the doors and painting the fronts is recommend.

Cloud White Semi Gloss - Refinished Cabinet Door

  • If the first coat has not cured enough the second coat will soften the first coat creating thick and unsightly brush marks.
  • Yellow bleeds or stains coming through white primer are sign you need to use oil base primer with shellac such as BIN by Zinsser.  If not dealt with the yellow will continue to bleed through to the finish coat.  If the yellowing is only is only in a few spots then use a spray can of BINs and only spot prime.  If the yellowing is extensive you will need to apply a complete coat of the BINs shellac based primer.

M) Second coat of paint: Between first and second coat use 320 grit sandpaper.  If it’s not covering completely after the second coats don’t force it, just accept that you’ll need to apply another coat.  You likely applied too light of a coat during the primer or painting process or both but that’s OK since the end results applying the paint to thick would be much worse.

N) Painting Base Cabinets, Gable Ends, Kick Plates, Crowns and Valances:  cabinet doors can be move around during the painting process but the base cabinetry cannot and therefore in many ways it is a lot harder and cumbersome to paint the base cabinets then the doors and drawers.  Take your time.  With all of the corners in the base cabinets there is a lot of places to get sags, even for the seasoned pro it can be  hard.  We spray paint most of your base cabinetry right on site using a portable turbine based sprayer such as Titan Capspray.   In October of 2014 we did a great blog entry on spray painting base cabinets and gable ends.

If you can’t use a sprayer to paint the base cabinets  the tiny 3 inch rollers are great for painting kitchen cabinet carcasses.  When painting the edge banding I really like to deplete my roller first.    Keep spare cardboard with you to do just that, i.e. roll out a freshly paint filled roller on the scrap piece cardboard before painting the thin strip edge banding.  Use a lot of tape here to make your job easier and to keep your focus on the not getting any sags or runs.

N) Dry Time and Re-hanging the doors:  Within hours the surface is dry to the touch but the paint is still soft and will scratch, chip or scuff easily.  During the initial week of drying try not to handle the doors too much initially and don’t try to hang the doors before they have begun to fully cure, this takes about 5 to 7 days.

Sharrard Painting & Fine Finishing
487 Speers Rd (by appointment only)
Oakville, Ontario
L6K 2G4
CA

Phone: (905) 334-3242
Website: www.sharrardpainting.ca